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Bringing Sacred Architecture Back to Life

Recognized as the maestro of his art school in Florence, Italy, John E. Rigali migrated to the United States in 1881 at age 16. While the prodigious sculptor intended to bring his artwork to Roman Catholic churches in North America, he never imagined that he would expand the family business into every aspect of interior church design, and that it would still be going strong nearly a century and a half later.

The Family Legacy Begins

Daprato Statuary Company employees in 1903 with John E. Rigali seated (center right) in the middle row. (Ike Beard/CC-BY-SA-4.0)

Upon arriving in Chicago, Rigali apprenticed with the Daprato brothers at the Daprato Statuary Company. A younger cousin of the four Daprato brothers, Rigali became a partner only three years later and the company’s president in 1890.

Daprato Statuary Company was awarded the prestigious title of Pontifical Institute of Christian Art by Pope Saint Pius X in 1909, an honor given to no other design studio. The pontiff whose mission was the spiritual restoration of all things, saw fit to recognize Americans who focused on the beautification of church buildings specifically.

Daprato Statuary Company’s skilled artisans painting statues for churches, convents, hospitals, and schools in their Chicago studio, circa late 19th century. (Courtesy of Daprato Rigali Studios)

By the 1920s, the Daprato Statuary Company had opened offices in Montreal, New York, and Pietrasanta, Italy. The company continued thriving for decades, but by the 1960s, modernist movements such as abstract expressionism found their way into church design.

As marble altars and multicolored stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes gave way to plain wooden tables and earth-toned glass depicting nothing in particular, the company’s additional offices closed. A business that had once staffed over 200 employees was now pared down to three: Robert Rigali (grandson of John E. Rigali), his wife Therese, and a noted stone mason, Lucherino Lucherini.

“Those were tough times for our Church and for our family business,” said Mike Rigali, the son of Robert, who changed the company name to Daprato Rigali Studios in 1960. Although only a small child in the 1960s, Mike later heard stories of how employees were released to form their own specialty businesses. Sculptors, glaziers, carpenters, and bronze workers were contracted only when Daprato Rigali secured a rare commission requiring their specific services.

A page from “Creations in Ecclesiastical Art” by Daprato Statuary Company, 1921. The catalogue included some examples of the company’s products including statuary, alters, stained glass windows, and baptismal fonts that were designed, modeled, and produced by Daprato Statuary Company. Internet Archive. (Public Domain)

In the 1970s, Daprato Rigali witnessed a small upsurge in sacred art projects. Churches once again sought the “old-world” craftsmanship that Daprato Rigali provided. The company’s reputation for quality and beauty allowed it to endure when competitors failed. This facilitated steady growth that accelerated throughout the following decades. “It went from two employees in the ’60s, to five in the ’70s, to 10 in the ’80s,” Mike said. It was a slow but sure revival of a once-dying family business.

Mike graduated from the University of Notre Dame in 1983 with a degree in American studies. “The degree had an emphasis on American architecture, so I basically studied architecture without officially becoming an architect,” he explained. After graduating, he officially joined the growing family business.

By the early 1990s, Daprato Rigali Studios was operated by the Rigali family’s fourth generation. Mike, his two older brothers John and Bob, and his younger sister Lisa were running the company as their father transitioned into retirement. This core family team was poised to usher in a new renaissance in sacred art.

Daprato Rigali is one of the country’s leading firms in new stained glass window design and fabrication. Its artisans are trained specifically in painting-on-glass. (Courtesy of Daprato Rigali Studios)

A Thriving Sacred Renaissance

In recent years, Daprato Rigali—thanks to its nearly 40 employees—has compiled one of the most impressive portfolios of church renovations in the country. Among their notable projects in Chicago are Saint Hedwig Catholic Church, done in the ornate “Polish cathedral style,” and Saint Alphonsus Church, whose celestial ceilings have gained attention from both sacred and secular sources. Beyond Chicago, projects include the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Immaculate Conception in Peoria, Illinois; the Cathedral of Christ the King in Atlanta; the Cathedral of the Incarnation in Nashville, and St. Boniface Catholic Church in San Francisco.

A before (left) and after photograph of Daprato Rigali Studios’ renovations at the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Immaculate Conception in Peoria, Illinois. The company restored stained glass windows, altar, and furnishings; installed new marble flooring in the nave and sanctuary; painted the ceiling blue with a starry night sky theme; and embelished the cathedral with intricate stencil designs and decorative paintings. ((Nheyob/CC-BY-SA-4.0)/Farragutful/CC-BY-SA-4.0)

A key component of all these projects is awareness and respect for the church building. Mike said that “our artists know that they are working in, not just a shell structure, but a sacred place that people come to for prayer, so we try to keep it as serene as possible. That includes daily cleanups that ‘minimize our dust’ and keep the projects moving forward.”

An example of this is the restoration of the Motherhouse Chapel of the Dominican Sisters of Mary, Mother of the Eucharist, in Ann Arbor, Michigan. The sisters needed trustworthy hands to reassemble and repair a reredos (large wall artwork directly behind an altar) from Spain that was over 100 years old. Mother Assumpta summed up the experience: “Not only did they treat every piece of the reredos with reverence, they seemed to enjoy the elegance of this amazing work of worship and of art—and we enjoyed their careful work as well!”

(Left) Spanish reredos from the chapel of the Dominican Sisters of Mary, Mother of the Eucharist in Ann Arbor, Mich. (Right) A detail of the chapel’s reredos that Daprato Rigali Studios restored. (Courtesy of Dominican Sisters of Mary, Mother of the Eucharist)

“My dad always emphasized quality, quality, quality in church decoration and restoration,” Mike remembered. “That meant doing the big things well, but also the little things.” He recalled how his father, Robert, would ensure even a hidden plank of wood inside a small door near the pipe organ was painted to match the rest of the color scheme—because, after all, it was part of the church’s interior.

Water damage restoration at St Michael’s in Old Town, Chicago. (Courtesy of Daprato Rigali Studios)

The Next Generation of Rigalis

Because the fourth generation wants to beautify churches indefinitely, they are pleased to have the fifth generation stepping up. Dan Rigali, 39, the oldest of Mike’s four sons, is the first of his age group to take an active leadership role as a project manager. “I had worked with my family intermittently in high school, and, after graduating with a construction management degree from the University of Denver, I worked elsewhere for a few years. I’ve been back for about 11 years now, and I’m completely dedicated to keeping the family business growing,” Dan said.

The family business’s fourth and fifth generations pose at the Daprato Rigali Studios after winning the 26th annual Illinois Family Business of the Year Award, 2019. (Natalie Battaglia/Loyola University Chicago)

Dan’s brother Jack and cousins Audrey Galvin, Tommy Galvin, Ellie Galvin, Taylor Rigali, and Joey Dealba have also joined the family business. Not many people can say they work for a company that has endured for 145 years, with family at its heart. This longevity is reflected in strong worker retention, with a decorative painter who has been with them for 45 years and another for 42 years.

The company’s commitment to continuing excellence was recognized by Loyola University in Chicago with the 2019 Illinois Small Family Business of the Year Award. Dan said he loves being part of this sacred family tradition and hopes to expand their artistic efforts even further, keeping in mind the intimate relationship among the transcendental realities of beauty, truth, and goodness identified by classical philosophy.

He explained that all congregants should be able to enter their parish churches and—due to the objectively harmonious order before them—exclaim, like Jacob in Genesis 28, “How awesome is this place! This is none other than the house of God; this is the gate of Heaven.” Indeed, the Rigalis believe that the ultimate goal of sacred art is to inspire viewers into continual prayer, empowering a life worthy of admittance to eternal beatitude.

A Daprato Rigali Studios crew member paints stars on the ceiling of St. Theresa Catholic Church in Palatine, Ill. (Courtesy of Daprato Rigali Studios)

Although Robert Rigali died in December 2020 at the age of 88, his noble work of carrying on his father’s and grandfather’s artistic legacy has been passed down to his own children and grandchildren. The Rigalis have made it their goal to restore all things sacred—a timeless ideal.

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Chicago-Based Historic Brand Oxxford Clothes Still Hand-Sews Every Suit for a Tailored Masterpiece

After a career of working on Savile Row with Sir Hardy Amies to produce the Queen’s day-wear, then moving to Ontario with custom tailor Coppley, Warwick Jones thought he was ready to retire. While planning a paradisaical retirement of fly-fishing in New Zealand, he was called by the head of the Individualized Apparel Group (IAG, the parent company that owns Coppley and Oxxford, among others) and asked to run the Oxxford Clothes factory in Chicago.

(Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)

Today, he is enjoying it hugely, and he is passionately dedicated to the craftsmanship of making garments by hand. Jones said, “The difference between a machine-made and a hand-made suit is like night and day.”

Oxxford Clothes was established in Chicago, an epicenter of the Arts and Crafts design movement, in 1916. Despite global changes in methods, machines, and mass-production, Oxxford has remained faithful to its mission to produce the best bespoke, hand-sewn men’s apparel out of the finest fabrics in the world.

An Oxxford dinner jacket. (Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)
(Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)

At Coppley, Jones was working with clothing that was largely machine-made. When traveling for business, he encountered “scores and scores of Oxxford Clothes in places like Neiman Marcus, just hanging on horrid little hangers, and I would put them on and immediately have the beautiful feeling of the coat as it melded to my body.” The first thing you notice, he says, is that the collar of the coat “hugs your neck; it is not too high or too low.” Also, “when you move your hand forward in the coat, it moves forward with you,” he explained. “It sings to you.”

The secret to the special song of the Oxxford garment is in the stitches. When Jones first went to Oxxford Clothes, the CEO of IAG told him to put a suit through the factory and follow it every step of the way. So he did, and it was the best way possible to learn about the process and, importantly, the art of the stitches. Jones said that there are on average 14,240 stitches in every suit: “I counted every one of them!” he said.

There are 4,000 stitches in the pants, and 900 stitches “just to put the roll on the canvas of the lapel so that it will stay that way forever.” Every button hole is sewn by hand and takes about 20 minutes to do, in contrast to the one-and-half seconds it would take a machine.

The stitches in each suit reflect the distinct personality and style of its craftsman. (Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)
(Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)

The most important thing to understand, Jones added, is that “they’re putting in the needle in such a way, and tightening the thread in such a way that, the reality is, they’re not just sewing a stitch. They’re putting personality into the garment with every stitch.”

This personality comes from the artisan working on a piece, and “the stitches are all quite unique, actually,” Jones marveled. For example, in the padding of a lapel, they aim for 25 stitches per square inch. Some tailors will do 20, and some will do 30, and “that’s their character going into what they’re doing, and it makes a difference.” Each Oxxford suit becomes a collector’s item. Jones said that all the tailors working in the Oxxford Clothes factory have their own way of doing things, and when he looks at their work, “I could tell you who sewed it.”

The individualized character of the stitches is matched, of course, by the individualized nature of bespoke clothing. Even if a client orders six suits at once, they will all be made from different materials, and they each make their way through the factory as a one-off. Every garment will have its unique characteristics, and no two garments will feel the same.

Each bespoke suit is tailored to meld flawlessly to the body of its wearer. (Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)
The Oxxford Elite Fall Coat. (Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)

This attention to detail, this personal approach, is mirrored in the daily work life of the factory. Jones greets every artisan in the morning and says good night to them all in the evening. In the Oxxford Clothes factory, Jones described, “the most noticeable thing is the quiet. When you walk out onto our shop floor, you don’t hear anything.” There are 100 people working there, he said, and “I know every one of them by name. It’s a place you enjoy coming to every single day.”

It is hard work, requiring great concentration and dexterity. It takes eight weeks to make a suit. Every hand-sewn stitch gives meaning to the final product, but it is never seen. It is hidden by fabric on the outside and lining on the inside. However, the artisans know it is there, and “they believe in it,” Jones said. All the hard work is worth it because “there’s nothing better than seeing a man walk out of a showroom in a new suit. Nothing feels as good as that first time you wear it. You feel empowered.”

Each one of Oxxford Clothes’s custom garments passes through 120 hands before its completion, according to the company. (Courtesy of Oxxford Clothes)